Namenlose Kante, winter ascent

February 15th, clear weather. Steven and I grab the first train from Zurich to Innerthal at 06.38 am. Objective: Namenlose Kante, a nine-pitch, ~5b route on the awesome Bockmattli.


The major difficulties end up to be not due to the grade, but instead:

  • the approach in the fresh snow (because snow shoes are for pussies);
  • finding the route (it takes two hours and two false starts, the first too much to the right and the second too much to the left, before reaching the first belay some 25 meters above the ground);
  • dealing with the usual fair amount of stuck wires and ropes;
  • walking down from the summit in a white-out shortly followed by the night.

We miss the last bus, but a farmer gives us a ride to the closest station saving us from a night under the stars; we manage, against the odds, to be back in Zurich by 11 pm.

Some pictures: